Hiking Boiling Lake (Dominica)

There are so many fun activities for the adventurous soul in Dominica, and my favorite adventure of all was our hike to Boiling Lake. If we talked before my trip, I would have told you this was on the bottom of my list of things I expected to be super awesome, and I’m SO glad we did it! The lack of tourists made it especially nice, as did the vast change in scenery (rainforests, mountain ridges, volcanic steam vents, etc.) and disappearing trails. Many sites will recommend a guide, but you can do this on your own (which is what we did). There was one section where we lost the trail and almost turned around until we saw another group ahead of us, so don’t expect this to be a walk in the park. Also be aware that the Valley of Desolation can be dangerous if you step off trail due to the risk of breaking through the ground and dipping your foot in boiling mud (a little common sense is all you need to prevent this). This is a full-day activity, so plan accordingly.

Hiking down into the Valley of Desolation on our way to Boiling Lake in Dominica.

Part 1: Titou Gorge to Breakfast River

The hike starts at Titou Gorge, which was one of the film sites for Pirates of the Caribbean. It’s also a great spot to swim after your hike (for a fee). The beginning of the hike brings you up man-made steps and well-developed trails in the rainforest with occasional river crossings. Eventually you will descend down to Breakfast River which is a common spot to rest and fill your water. I carried enough water with me, but I still brought my backpacking water filter just in case I needed it.

The beginning of our hike to Boiling Lake

Steps in the beginning of our hike to Boiling Lake in Dominica.

Part 2: Breakfast River to the top of the Valley of Desolation

After Breakfast River, you will begin a steep uphill ascent which transitions into a more gradual climb along a ridge to the top of the peak. From there, it’s downhill to the Valley of Desolation. Some areas are easy steps, while other areas are steep and loose dirt/rocks that require ropes for assistance. As you descend the ridge, you get your first view of the steam from Boiling Lake in the distance.

Hiking the ridge after Breakfast Stream on our way to Boiling Lake,

We made it to the top of the peak, so now it’s time to descend to the Valley of Desolation.

Using ropes to descend down to the Valley of Desolation.

First view of steam from Boiling Lake way in the distance!

Towards the end of the descent, the dirt trail started to turn into more slippery rock, and we could begin to smell the sulfur from the Valley of Desolation.

Part 3: The Valley of Desolation to Boiling Lake

The Valley of Desolation feels like you just landed on Mars, and it is a complete change from the rainforest and mountain ridge you were just on. The trail becomes more vague at this point, but as long as you pay attention, you can follow the packed-down trail. You will walk by sulfur springs, hot pools, and steam vents, so watch your step! This is a fun spot to explore, and it was by far my favorite area of the hike. As you cross through the Valley of Desolation, you will begin to walk along a stream. This is where route-finding became very difficult, as we had to cross and re-cross the stream multiple times, and there were many “deer trails” that ended up leading to nowhere. There are a few areas where you could take a dip in the warm water, but we didn’t have time to do that. Eventually the trail will take off to the right up a steep embankment which has a rope to help you up. If you made it this far, you shouldn’t have any more problems with route-finding. From here, you continue uphill across some rocky terrain, and eventually you will round a corner before making it to the Boiling Lake!

Make sure to stay on the trail in the Valley of Desolation so that you don’t break through the ground into boiling mud!

Looking back onto the Valley of Desolation as we head towards Boiling Lake. This is where the trail get very difficult to follow. In fact, we got lost and almost had to turn around until we ran into another group and found the right way.

There were many warm pools to soak in near the Valley of Desolation!

Walking along the river, questioning whether we are still on the trail to Boiling Lake,

This is the turnoff that we missed. It goes up and to the right, and there is a rope to help you up. After this, it’s about a 30 minute - 1 hour hike uphill to get to Boiling Lake.

Here you can see the steam from Boiling Lake in the distance.

The scenery has changed again as we get closer to Boiling Lake!

Part 4: The Lake

Boiling Lake is viewed from above on top of a cliff (which you just ascended from the back side). Visibility may be difficult depending on how much mist and steam there is over the lake. Take some time to enjoy the view and appreciate the geography of the lake. It is believed that Boiling Lake is actually a flooded fumarole, a crack through which gases escape from the molten lava below, rather than a volcanic crater. Its water is supplied by rain and two small streams that empty into the lake. The water seeps through the porous bottom to the hot lava below where it is trapped and heated to boiling point. Boiling Lake is approximately 200-250 feet across and is the second-largest hot lake in the world.

Checking out the cliff with Boiling Lake below.

The Return Home

The geography of Dominica is so fascinating, and we spent a lot of time enjoying the scenery before beginning our trek home. Although the hike is only 8 miles, the terrain can be challenging at times, and it took us longer than expected. We gave ourselves plenty of time, however, so we were still able to rest and enjoy the scenery for quite a while. We did not swim in Titou Gorge when we returned, but we did treat ourselves to a nice warm dinner in Roseau with an Italian friend we met on our hike (who also happened to get lost on the river trails after the Valley of Desolation).

The beginning of the return trail home from Boiling Lake.

Carefully walking through the Valley of Desolation.

Gear Recommendations:

Osprey Tempest 30L backpack (the men’s version is the Osprey Talon)
Lightweight water filter or water purification tablets
2 liter Camelbak bladder for easy-access drinking (fits into pocket in Osprey backpack)
Toilet paper for the ladies
GPS watch to track your mileage
Street map so you can find your way to the trailhead!
Gore tex rain jacket since it’s always raining in Dominica!
Gore tex hiking sneakers or boots (I prefer sneakers because they are more mobile, but if you prefer more ankle stability and protection during river crossings, go with the boots)